Torta di Mele: Italian Apple Pie

On Italian food blogs, many writers share fond memories of their grandmothers making Torta di Mele, a classic homemade apple dessert that is somewhere between a cake, a pudding, and a pie.

Though I have Italian heritage, I don’t have such memories. After all, it was my grandfather, not my grandma, who had the Italian roots. So I have no memories of my grandmother baking Torta di Mele, and I have no memories of my grandfather at all–only some pictures–since he passed away when I was very young.

Memories or not, it’s important to acknowledge one’s roots. I try to learn what I can about my ancestors’ immigration story and reflect on it in light of what immigrant communities experience today.

Exploring history through food provides sensory connections. When I cook, I repeat processes that perhaps my great great grandmothers used.

Okay, they didn’t have active dry yeast to make the torta, and they probably went to the henhouse or their neighbors’ farm for their eggs, rather than the local food market, but they still would have sliced the apples, soaked the raisins, beat the eggs, and arranged the fruit in their favorite pattern.

They may have made this recipe differently than I did. As I mentioned, there are many different versions of this dessert. This version was pie-like because it uses so many apples. It was cake-like because the apples are mixed into the batter. And it was pudding-like because the dough is so soft.

Torta di mele can also be made with yogurt, with powdered sugar on top, and with baking powder instead of yeast.

However, “a few things are true of all authentic torta di mela recipes,” says a blogger on Food52. “While our apple crisps, pies and cobblers are heavily seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, no spices are used in the torta di mela. Only freshly squeezed lemon juice and lemon zest give the cake a light, delicate taste, and not-too-much sugar lets the natural sweetness of the apples come through.”

Cooking Notes

I hadn’t noted the lack of spices as I followed the recipe, and I certainly didn’t miss them when I tasted it–it is bursting with flavor. Apples, raisins and lemon give this a robust, zesty flavor.

So, whatever you do, skip the spices to keep it authentic. Here are some other notes:

• The batter should be sticky, not stiff. The consistency of the cake will be very soft.
• For a classic version, peel the apples on top of the torta. Or for a twist, keep the skins on if you like their brightness.
• Experiment with new ways to arrange the apples on top. Some bakers let the apples sink into the dough more, so they are partially hidden.
• Be careful the top doesn’t get too crisp. Cover it with aluminum foil if it needs to bake longer but the top is browning.
• Torta di Mele freezes well!